Climbing Reservations, Facts and Tips

Reservations for climbing and wilderness permits opened on March 15th. By April 1st, we had a stack of over 1000 forms to process. We're not complaining, and keep them coming, but know that we are processing these ASAP and it is likely that your confirmation letter is or will be in the mail shortly. If we are unable to make your reservation due to camps being full, you will receive a letter giving the reason and you will not be charged for climbing passes or the reservation fee. Some common problems that will slow processing of your request are: not attaching the supplemental form if you have already purchased climbing passes, leaving out dates or camps, illegible credit card numbers, or omitting your credit card's three-digit security code, now required on the new version of the form (if you have an old form, please enter the three-digit code after your card number).
If the dates of your trip can be flexible you will be more likely to get your requested camps. Also if you can be flexible with the requested campsites, it allows us to modify your itinerary to accommodate your trip. While desirable for requests made for trips during midweek, these two options help considerably on the weekends.

For forms and more Info go to:

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/wilderness-reservation-information.htm

Rainier After the Storm!

After receiving nearly 8 ft. of snow over the past week at Paradise,

the mountain is looking particularly PHAT!

(View from the Tatoosh)

Getting into the Season

The seasonal climbing ranger staff is back after a great winter of climbing (check out these photos), ski patrolling (shredding locally), tending bar (stop by), and even studying (learn to forecast here).

With all of the recent spring snow we've been getting (and needing!) visitors have been out skiing almost everyday. Avalanche conditions have been varying a lot lately, so make sure to check out conditions before dropping in. Use the "weather" link to the right to see the most recent info.

We'll be updating all of the routes for 2010 and adding logistical information (where to get your permit, when the ranger stations are open, when roads are scheduled to open, etc.) in the next couple of days. Check out the previous years posts on the "Updated Route Condtions" blog for early season route conditions from 2009.

See you on the mountain soon!

News from Nepal

Climbing ranger David Gottlieb, and former ranger, Joe Puryear, are back inside the Himalayas again. On January 31st, it was announced that they were recipients of the 2010 Mugs Stump Award. Check out their blog for updates and pics of their adventure. Be sure to send some positive vibrations their way.

Also, the 2010 Khumbu Climbing School in Phortse, Nepal has been in session this spring. This annual school, held in late-January through early-February, was founded to "increase the safety margin of Nepali climbers and high-altitude workers by encouraging responsible climbing practices in a supportive and community-based program." Check out their website here. The Mount Rainier Climbing Ranger Program has hosted many Nepali climbers in the past seasons, and looks forward to working with them in the future.

With President's Day fast approaching it's time to get out and enjoy the cold, fresh, winter snow before the warmer spring days start. Bring your skis, safety stuff, and partner. See you on the slopes!

Paradise to Muir - 2010

December 29th, 2009

I just did a nice check on Camp Muir this morning.  I left Paradise at about 9:00 a.m.  It was a little chilly.  I was really surprised how few skiers were actually out.  Kudos to the brave soul who marched up the Nisqually and skied the chute solo.  Style.

First things first.  Attention everyone.  There was a wicked layer of surface hoar that didn't get any sun action today before the clouds started rolling in.  It's going to get buried.  There are all sorts of facets in the snow in the top 20 cm.  What's worrisome is that the surface hoar is growing on a layer of sun crust.  Underneath the sun crust is another layer of facets.  Check out the snowpit profile.

Click on the image for a better, more readable size.

Expect these faceted layers to remain intact on all aspects for a while.

So the rest of the trip to Muir was outstanding.  Skiing was 7 out of 10, for the windswept snowfield, anyway.  The new snow that is forecast should make the skiing even better.

One thing I want everyone to be aware of is what we call the "Ant Trap".  Remember that sand pit that Luke got thrown into by Jabba?  Well, this is kind of like that.

It's located right next to McClure Rock.  Click that picture to the right and note the coordinates on the bottom of the photo: -121.724123   46.808050 (WGS84).  Plug that into your GPS and avoid it like the plague.

Many people have been eaten by the Ant Trap and more than a few have broken bones because of it.

Things are looking good at Camp Muir, albeit there is a lot of snow.  Remember you'll have to dig your way into the upper half of the middle toilet.  So plan on a little shoveling before you are moved to use it!

Also, remember if you're coming up to climb, to stop at the Paradise Old Station (the A-frame in the upper parking lot) and self-register.  You can also pay the 30 dollar climbing fee to the 'iron ranger' there as well.

A storm was quickly moving in, so I had to ski-dattle.  Down at Paradise, the parking lot is completely full!  Hundreds of cars and sledders.

December 23rd, 2009 - Sweet Turns at Paradise!

This is it. Finally our snowpack at Paradise is back to normal at 78 inches. The rain from the last warm spell has stopped and we have up to 18 inches of new snow that has consolidated and another 5 inches of pretty light snow on top of it.

I started up the road this morning after we opened it at around 08:00 am.  The light on the mountain was absolutely spectacular.  It was clear and there was a little bit of surface hoar when I went to the weather station this morning.  Here was the weather obs:

High: 22  Low: 16  Current: 22  Precip: .02  New: Tr Total Snow: 78" Winds: N @ 3-4.

We had our morning chores to do, cones in the parking lot, bumping sign and bamboo in the snowplay area, then folks started coming in droves.
The snowplay area is open and the runs are fast.  However, because there's relatively little snow, we can only put one run in.  The lines are a little long.  Remember to get out of the run when you've come to a stop!

About noon we headed up towards Pan Point.  What's this?  It's noon at Paradise on a sunny day and there's no tracks?  Where are all the skiers?  Gary Voigt was up making turns in upper Edith Creek below McClure.

We've been telling people for years that the right way up Pan Point is in the trees on the nose.  However, sometimes I think you're better off just going up the gully.  We should've.  The south facing part of the nose of the ridge was a little wet and heavy.  It was starting to crack as we got onto steeper ground >40 degrees.

Always evaluate your own avalanche conditions!


We crested the ridge and decided to head for the top of Pan Point at around 7200 feet.

I was still surprised to see no tracks up above us since we had such a late start and the Paradise parking lot was FULL.

Whatever, the more powder for us.

Well, the way down was fabulous.  My favorite run is to cut underneath McClure Rock.  It's a little less exposed to the cliff bands around Pan Point.  I rarely find avalanche conditions out this far.  However, I did notice a crown feature on those cliff bands back down towards Pan Point.  East facing, steep, ridge top... no surprise.

However, out where we were, the snow was outstanding.

Once we hit the flats to the east of Pan point, we traversed down the top of Mazama Ridge until we got to a slope locally known as Bundy's Blunder.  It's just upridge of Sluiskin Falls.  There was some slide deposition on it from the sun action today.  It was only 4-5", but wet and heavy.  It was enough to carry us, so we traversed out a hundred yards to the right and merrily made sweet turns all the way to the Paradise Valley Road.

Here's the latest weather history comparison:

Date 12/23

Max Recorded Snowdepth at Paradise 166 inches

Year of Max Recorded Snowdepth at Paradise 1916

Historic Average Snowpack at Paradise 77.9 inches

Current Snowdepth at Paradise 78 inches

Percent of Normal 100.13%

Percent of Historic Max 46.99%

Average Hi Temp: 32

Today's Hi Temp 22

Average Lo Temp: 21

Today's Lo Temp 16

Come on up!  It's good!

Winter Conditions and Forecasting Resources

What's this cold, wet, white stuff that's piling up all around us?  Ah, yes.  I remember.  It happened last year at this time, too.  Winter recreating and climbing on Mt. Rainier can be really enjoyable.  However, a thorough weather forecast is very important.

Here are some thoughts on the weather and Forecast Resources.

To most people, weather is something you look up at from ground level. To climbers, pilots, and other people who get outdoors, the weather can be above you AND below you. You're often IN those clouds that others are looking up at in the city. What to the sea level viewer is a cloud is fog to you!

It's VERY important to have a good weather forecast when you climb Mt. Rainier. The weather rules the day and will rule your climb, especially this time of year. The weather has proven itself to be one of the biggest contributing factors to situations requiring rescues.
Here are some of the websites that I religiously check before my climb, and before I register climbers. In general, you should be particularly concerned about clouds, precip., temperature, and winds.

Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast
For a good and quick weather briefing, start off with the Mt. Rainier Recreational Forecast. It's specific to Mt. Rainier and put out by the forecasters at the National Weather Service forecast office in Seattle.  This usually gives the freezing levels, too.

UW Atmospheric Sciences GFS Forecast Models
Instead of portraying atmospheric information on a horizontal plane, the following site loops at 3 hour intervals and shows a vertical slice of the atmosphere from the Mt. Rainier area in a southwest direction. On the left are pressure-altitudes. Although the altitude at which a specific pressure is encountered will vary depending on current atmospheric conditions, at "standard" pressure, 1013 mb is sea level, and 1000 mb is roughly 360', 900 mb is about 3,240', 800 mb about 6,400', 700 mb about 9,500', and 600 mb is about 13,800'. Consider that Paradise is at about 5,500', Muir at 10,000' and the summit at 14,411' and you will be able to see at what elevations the clouds are forecast to be! Pay particular attention to humidities, as Mt. Rainier tends to intensify already high humidities and produce clouds.

Temperature-Winds Aloft Forecast
Next up is the temperature-winds aloft forecast from the FAA interpreted by usairnet. This is usually for pilots, but climbers would be wise to pay attention to it. Remember, these are theoretical forecasted wind speeds and directions.  You can adjust the forecast period at the top of the page.  I have found from personal experience that the winds are often greater than forecast and temperatures are warmer.

Wind Profiler
Another good site to assess regional winds aloft is the wind profiler showing wind speed and direction at Sand Point (Seattle).

Here is a primer in reading this data: Wind is shown in the vertical from sea level to 3,500 meters (about 11,500') given on the Y axis. Data is posted each hour on the X axis with the most recent readings on the left side of the diagram. Time is UTC which is 8 hours later than PST, so 02/18 isn't February 18 but rather February 2 at 1800 hours, or 1200 PST. North is represented by the top of the diagram, south by the bottom, etc. For example, if a line is coming from the left and ending at the vertical time line, that is a west wind (270 degrees). Each full barb on the shaft of a vector represents ten knots, each half barb is 5 knots, and a solid triangle is 50 knots, so a "barb and a half" is about 15knots. Ten knots is about 11.5 mph. Of course local winds may vary, but wind at 10,000' is going to be quite consistent with simultaneous wind elsewhere at that altitude in the region, whether measured at Sand Point or on Mt. Rainier.]

NWAC Mountain Weather Forecast Page
In the winter, the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center produces the best weather forecast discussion because it is specifically geared toward recreational purposes in the mountains! You can also, of course, read the avalanche forecast here, too.

Camp Muir Live Weather Telemetry
Paradise Live Weather Telemetry
Also, with love from the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center, I help maintain a weather station at Camp Muir. This is always fun to check. Although the wind instruments often rime up and cease to function, the temps. are usually pretty accurate.


Paradise Experimental Weather Forecast
And finally, here's a page I find extremely useful. It's an "experimental" forecast interpretation based on Paradise.


Get a weather radio, if you can, for getting updates up on the mountain. NOAA weather radio broadcasts decent mountain weather forecasts on 162.425MHz, 162.45MHz, 162.475MHz, and 162.55MHz.

Hope that helps!

Longmire to Paradise on the Wonderland

This just in from someone who walked from Longmire to Paradise...


November 10, 2009

Left Longmire around 8am with two friends on the Wonderland trail to Paradise.

Best weather possible- mostly clear, no rain until we got off the trail. Twice I stood in the sun.

The trail is snowless up to the Nisqually river. Here's our first unintentional departure from the trail. We meandered north to find a good crossing, as we didn't see any trail on the other side.

After 20 minutes with all three of us across, we took out a map and compass and decided we had gone too far north. 5 minutes of bushwacking brought us onto the trail.

When you cross the river, cross right where the Wonderland trail ends on the east side. The trail continues just up the rise, I promise.

Some bear tracks and a fair amount of deer. No wildlife seen, if you don't count the elk near Ashford on the way up.

After another mile or so and some postholing we decided it was snowshoe time. My first time using them.

I now love snowshoes.

The next 2 or 3 miles were quite pleasant up to Narada falls.

we then departed the trail again. We discovered that there are waist, nay, armpit height drifts behind the comfort station and the road to Ohanapecosh.

We traded off breaking trail, hoping to spot the 'real' trail any moment.

We didn't.

We did trade off leader for a while. Breaking trail where you go in knee dip at minimum is rough going.

We finally saw a road to our right. Steep, but we knew that would lead us to Paradise eventually.

This was where we found the armpit high snow. I shudder to think how we would have gotten up sans snowshoes. Swimming through snow, perhaps?

Trekking poles were helpful for the river crossing, but essential here.

Once on the (unplowed) Ohanepecosh road, we followed a cross country ski route back to the road to Paradise. After searching near the bridge for the trail without luck, we looked at the time (nearly 2pm), and decided prudence dictated we start back.

We all agreed we would try hitchhiking to our car at Longmire.

The first person we asked drove me down, I gathered the rest, and off to Elbe for food.

About 6 miles total. Excellent weather, until we got to Elbe, when it started to pour.

A great snowshoe route. Not advisable with just boots.

Next: Longmire to Muir, return the next day to Paradise. Contingent on weather, of course...